Retrosound Radio System Installed in 71 Roadrunner

[471Magnum]

Once I got the old speaker out, it was obvious that the two extra tabs on the DVC speaker would need to be removed. I zipped those off with a dremel and a mini cut-off wheel.

tabs

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Another test fit revealed the corners of the speaker frame would need to be trimmed off to allow it to fit down in the factory recess. The Radio Shack speaker had been modified in this way as well. I broke out the heavier artillery for this, utilizing a thin cut-off wheel on my angle grinder.

corners

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[471Magnum]

After that, it dropped right in. Actually, it's a pretty tight fit getting it into place between the windshield and the dash pad. It took a little maneuvering.

Finally I attached it with some self-tapping sheet metal screws in the factory holes. Just two screws this time.

screws

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done

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Next up will be the head unit, but I need a break from the heat first

[471Magnum]

Now for the head unit installation. Nothing to removing the old one. Remove knobs. Disconnect speaker lead. Disconnect power lead, unplug antenna, remove two nuts on the shafts, unbolt support bracket at rear, remove ashtray assembly to gain access to the side bolt, an remove side bolt. Done.

Now for the new radio.

First thing I notice is the weight, or lack thereof on the new unit. Where the stock AM weighs in at 4 ½ lbs, the new one is just under two pounds. Feather weight.

old vs new 1

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Picture illustrates the sheer reduction in bulk. That ought to be worth a tenth or two in the quarter!
Right out of the box, the shaft depth is pretty close to where it needs to be, but not quite. I stacked the two radios and with a straight edge, adjusted the jamb nuts to hit the exact same depth as the factory radio. I put a dab of red thread locker on the shafts to keep the nuts from moving. Note that the Custom Autosound unit will not protrude through the opening like the factory radio.

bracket

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Next thing to do is figure out the rear support. It comes with a steel strap and a stud on the back like all aftermarket stereos, but I wanted to utilize the factory attachments. Using the supplied strap, and a couple of self-tapping sheet metal screws, I created a bracket that would locate a stud in the same area as the original radio. Before driving in the screws, I probed the holes to make sure I wouldn't be screwing into any electronics. The rear support strap on the vehicle has plenty of play, so the stud location just needs to be close. The new unit is so light, it probably could be held in place with just the nuts on the shaft, but this is definitely the better way to go.

[471Magnum]

So now everything just bolts back into place in reverse order, minus the screw into the side.

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done

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I utilized the knobs that came with the Custom Autosound unit. My originals may have fit, but they are kind of crusty. I might freshen them up for installation at a later date.

Next is the wiring, but that's straight forward, so I'm not going to document it. Besides, working on under dash wiring is probably my least favorite task on these old cars.

One thing I don't like is the USB lead. It needs to be about 4-6 inches longer so you can hide it in the ash tray. At this point, I'm not sure where I put it. Might have to get an extension of some sort.

[transamman]

That sure is a neat looking system also. Way cool. When I was talkin abt speaker interference with the dash grill, I was speaking about mounting the 3.5's on the top of a bracket . I can't say for certain about that but I'm pretty sure that the 3.5's won't work that way. Your dual voice coil setup looks good and so does the finished results!!!! Unit price?? -Horace

[471Magnum]

Both can be found on Ebay from multiple vendors.

$230 for the head unit. There is a lower priced one as well lacking the USB and some other features.
$50 for the speaker.

Still on the fence about rear speakers. Need to do some fund raising prior to making that purchase anyway. Going to just try it with the front speaker for a while.

The unit is advertised as having 60 watts per channel. I doubt it. There just isn't enough bulk there to be housing a decent internal amplifier. It'd be cool to install an external amp to power the rear speakers, and maybe a small sub under the seat(s). That would require some additional wiring and expense. Not on the agenda for this year for sure.

[transamman]

Thanks for the info. That is a BAAAAAAAD GTX of yours!!!! I'm gonna start a new discussion shortly and I'd appreciate your honest input as well as everyone's-Horace

[471Magnum]

The USB port on my Custom Autosound unit has crapped out. Works for about 15 minutes, then it goes dead. Will be shipping it back for repairs. We'll see how they respond.

[transamman]

Bummer. But, on the bright side... At least it isn't a new freshly installed heater core that crapped out! It's still a nice system you got there friend- Horace

[Capsule]

Hey guys,

thought I would show some photos of my version of 'retro sound' . I went a slightly diffrent way, I wanted the system to look 70'ies style and close to something that the factory could have done back then. I didn't want to hack my Rally dash, so I made my own under-dash housing in a similar style as the original Stereo cassette desk. I started out with a Pioneer P77-MP that looks pretty old school and installed it in a Pyle marine cabinet. I made my own front facia with simulated wood and chrome trim to make it blend right in:-)

For speakers I went with high-end Pioneer 2-way coax-units. 6x9" in the parcel shelf, they deliver a great, dry thumpin bass. No need for a sub!
In the front, I started out with two 4" coax-units in a homemade adapter in place of the old 4x10" unit. It worked but sounded horrible. Doesn't work with stereo from the back and then 'mono' in the front. You end up getting both front channels in one ear and that just destroys the stereo perspective.
So I did the right thing (in my oppinion) and moved the 4" drivers to the upper door panels. Now, that was a real challenge, since I needed to find a spot where the speaker unit didn't conflict with all the window mechanism, locks, mirror adjust and also the design of the door panel etc. Also needed to arrange speaker cables out to the doors, mannaged to do so without having to remove the doors. I finally managed to fit the speaker units in nicely. Now the sound is really good with a fine stereo perspective.

As you can see on the photos I had to move the mirror joystick forward in order to make room for the
speaker. Works just fine!

The speaker grills are Bang & Olufsen aluminum grills used in AUDI Q7 and the previous AUDI A8. I just happen to work as a designer for B&O Automotive and thought these grills had the right look for a 71 Runner:-)

[Capsule]

More photos

[Capsule]

More photos

[Capsule]

Last photos

[471Magnum]

Got my head unit back yesterday. They said they could not duplicate the problem on the bench, but went ahead and replaced all of the internals.

I reinstalled it last night and let it play for an hour or so while I was working in the garage. Seemed to work just fine. Drove around with it for a while today and it continues to work. Let's hope it continues as we're entering the prime fall cruising season.

[Ronnman]

Capsule - That's a well thoughout addition which does have a 70s flavor. I debated whether to cut the door panels an mount speakers or use the dash speaker location. I mounted my speakers in the dash for now and am still considering the door mounting. How did you drill the wire holes in the jambs without removing the doors? Also, how deep are the door speakers?
Ron