
Removing (separating) upper control arms
Moderator: Site Administrators
-
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:14 pm
- My Cars: 71 Satellite
70 Challenger
07 300C SRT8
13 Ram C/V (Caravan) work-issued - Location: Vancouver, WA
Removing (separating) upper control arms
I'm looking for any tips on separating upper control arm ball joint from spindles while in the car (excluding pickle fork). I'd like to be able to reuse the parts and avoid marring restored components. I read somewhere a guy suggested a bolt and coupling nut to act as a "spreader" but yet to try it. Any ideas? 

- 72RoadRunnerGTX
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:44 pm
- My Cars: 1972 Road Runner/GTX
1972 Satellite Sebring
1972 Satellite Sebring(big block parts car) - Location: Seattle, Washington
Re: Removing (separating) upper control arms
Before unloading the torsion bars, back the nut off a couple of turns, careful placement of some hammer blows to the side of the spindle knuckle should free the tapper with minimal impact.

-
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:14 pm
- My Cars: 71 Satellite
70 Challenger
07 300C SRT8
13 Ram C/V (Caravan) work-issued - Location: Vancouver, WA
Re: Removing (separating) upper control arms
Thank you for the reply. This will likely be a winter project. I'll post an update. I run G60-15 bias ply tires and the stability on straight stretches is a little squirmy. I'm going to try Dick Ross ' s upper control arms to get some more caster to see of that helps.
-
- Satellite Sebring Plus (RP)
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:43 pm
- Location: Slidell, LA
Re: Removing (separating) upper control arms
If you have a stubborn one, I have placed a hammer on one side while hitting the other side of the knuckle with a second hammer. I use usually place the heavier hammer against the knuckle and hit the opposite side with the lighter one.
Ron
Ron