Windshield Glass

[71bird]

Hi everyone, looking at the book about putting in the windshield on the 71 B body,and I know that glue and so forth that they used then is no longer available. I was wondering what other people are doing. according to the book it is glued in. Any thoughts?

[dangina]

just the window sealant that they use now, can't remeber the name, I have a guy from a glass shop that comes to my house and removes/installs front/rear windows for cheap on the side, I'm sure you can find someone to do the same

[JimT1971RR]

I think you are looking for 3M window-weld sealer. It is a ribbon of very sticky polysulfide. I believe that is what I used when I got my windshield a few years back. It works great, no leaks. You can get it through Summit and I am sure other places as well.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trm-8612/overview/

[rr6pak]

If my memory is correct, its called butyl sealer(?)

[kenny]

i agree with the last 2 in that originally they used the strip type seal. i also remember reading that over the years mopar had a couple different thickness' and that will affect how level the glass trim is and the tube type usually makes it hard to get the trim off later because it pushes out into the trim clips.

[rr6pak]

i agree with the last 2 in that originally they used the strip type seal. i also remember reading that over the years mopar had a couple different thickness' and that will affect how level the glass trim is and the tube type usually makes it hard to get the trim off later because it pushes out into the trim clips.

The stuff I'm thinking of is different. I remember when I was a kid, my dads RR had a crack on it. He took it to the dealer and I tagged along. The tech pulled out a gun that looked like a caulking gun and laid a bead around the channel and then put the glass in it. I remember it oozed out a little. I also remember it having a consistency of "gooey gum or "tar like" substance cause you can pick/pull on it and it would be sticky. I got the residue on my fingers/clothes and my parent were lol

The stuff pictured above looks like window caulking/tape. Just my opinion

[71bird]

No its not butyl, the book calls for polysulfide.Which is kinda like the urethane of today, but it also calls for a kind of strip to dam the sealant. I talked to a glass man and he knows what the book is talking about,and said you can get away with out it.

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

These cars were designed then for, left the factory with, butyl tape only securing the fixed glass. As linked to the Summit site, it is still available today most anywhere. Comes in a couple of different sizes and both square & round cross sectioned versions. A pinch weld primer was used as well. Cars today use urethane adhesive and primers, stronger than butyl but a bit tricky to control the depth the glass sets, in relation to the trim, before the urethane cures, on older cars designed for butyl tape. I use a combination of both on my b-bodies, 3/8” round butyl tape on the windshield, 5/16” round for the back glass with primer and urethane applied after between the body and glass, outside the butyl. Keep it away from the trim clips, it sets up hard.
Pretty easy to spot a urethane only installation on one of these cars as the glass is usually set too low leaving gaps between the trim and glass. Takes a very experienced modern day glass installer to control glass depth.

[71bird]

Ok, but what is polysulfide that the service manual calls for? The guy that put my glass in used butyl and you can see that it is not sealed up completely and its so thick that the trim wont go on.I'm gonna have to pay somebody again to do it over, and want to get it right this time.I have tried heating it up and squash it, but it didn't move.

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

I see that reference in the ‘71 manual, first time I’ve noticed it. The ’72 FSM refers to Butyl. Replaced numerous windshields on Mopars working at dealers back then, never anything but butyl used at the time. Never had a problem with height using 3/8” round butyl on the front glass, 5/16” on the back. I would only attempt working with butyl while in a warm shop environment however.