Best chrome buffer and polish?
Moderator: Site Administrators
Best chrome buffer and polish?
What's the best non abrasive method of removing old grime and discoloration from chrome without damaging the finish? The chrome on my bumpers looks pretty good (I'd give them a B+) so I'd rather not risk that if I can help it, but around the mounts and stuff is this tenacious blackish grime and a tad of rust on one of the mount stud thingies (dammit I can't remember what you call a featureless rounded bolt end like that - I know there's a name for it).
Anyway, you get the idea.
Anyway, you get the idea.
- ajcpaperboy
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
- My Cars: '71 Road Runner
- Location: Douglasville, GA.
- aerodynamic
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:05 pm
- Location: Palm Bay Fla
- Contact:
- ajcpaperboy
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
- My Cars: '71 Road Runner
- Location: Douglasville, GA.
I do not want to start anything but here are pictures of lag and carriage boltsaerodynamic wrote:I think "lag bolt" is the term you were grasping for.
- Attachments
-
- lag-bolt-small.gif (1.06 KiB) Viewed 11631 times
-
- carriage-bolt-small.gif (1.07 KiB) Viewed 11630 times
I said "Don't look Ethel,but it was to late."
- aerodynamic
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:05 pm
- Location: Palm Bay Fla
- Contact:
- ajcpaperboy
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
- My Cars: '71 Road Runner
- Location: Douglasville, GA.
-
- Road Runner (RM)
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:04 am
- Location: South Jersey
Best Chrome Buffer and Polish?
I'll take a stab at the polish question. I use the old school stuff still, Turtle wax Chrome Polish. It comes in a white plastic container. It is kind of a thin off white liquid wax. You have to do sections at time, and goes on and off like liquid wax. Do do it in the sun on a hot bumper, drys too fast and can get real hard. The results are good, crud may take a second application with a real soft worn out tooth brush.
You'll see your face in get clearer, as it mirrors up. Dartomotive (Mike)
You'll see your face in get clearer, as it mirrors up. Dartomotive (Mike)
Polishing chrome and stainless is DIFFERENT. While you polish chrome, you BUFF stainless. And obviously the stainless should be OFF the car to be buffed properly. Anybody wanting to learn how to do their own stainless buffing, Eastwood has a good introductory video and kit. But the most important component (other than patience) is a GOOD motor to power your buffing wheel. You need one that generates plenty of TORQUE.
FWIW, stainless restoration and buffing is my specialty in my 2nd job at US Car Tool.
FWIW, stainless restoration and buffing is my specialty in my 2nd job at US Car Tool.
Last edited by bruce on Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bruce Anliker
- ajcpaperboy
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 219
- Joined: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:20 pm
- My Cars: '71 Road Runner
- Location: Douglasville, GA.
Find US Car Tool on the web at www.uscartool.com
The phone # is: 919-855-8200
John's email: john@uscartool.com
I use a 3600 rpm 3/4 hp motor at US Car Tool. You want to also purchase the right-sized buffs for your motor's rpm--meaning different rpm motors use different diameter buffs.
Believe me, Eastwood's information makes it easy for a novice to learn--it's how I learned! But the BIGGEST thing in stainless restoration is PATIENCE. It's LOTS of steps, lots of trial-and-error, and lots of redoing to get it looking GOOD.
I'm still learning and experimenting on how to get BETTER. But I'm not ashamed to put my stainless on Car Tool's restorations. I think unless you're comparing my work to one of the BIG name shops it will hold it's own on the show field. I just want to get even BETTER at it.
FWIW, getting dents and dings out and straightening the stainless so it looks like new will be your biggest challenge. You end up having to form all kinds of specialized tools to get the stainless back into shape, sometimes working from the back and sometimes from the front...
The phone # is: 919-855-8200
John's email: john@uscartool.com
I use a 3600 rpm 3/4 hp motor at US Car Tool. You want to also purchase the right-sized buffs for your motor's rpm--meaning different rpm motors use different diameter buffs.
Believe me, Eastwood's information makes it easy for a novice to learn--it's how I learned! But the BIGGEST thing in stainless restoration is PATIENCE. It's LOTS of steps, lots of trial-and-error, and lots of redoing to get it looking GOOD.
I'm still learning and experimenting on how to get BETTER. But I'm not ashamed to put my stainless on Car Tool's restorations. I think unless you're comparing my work to one of the BIG name shops it will hold it's own on the show field. I just want to get even BETTER at it.
FWIW, getting dents and dings out and straightening the stainless so it looks like new will be your biggest challenge. You end up having to form all kinds of specialized tools to get the stainless back into shape, sometimes working from the back and sometimes from the front...
Bruce Anliker
Actually have a couple, but also have made male and female tools that fit the opposite sides of a particular piece of stainless in order to work out a dent and reshape the part--mount one in a vise while holding and hammering with the other. Ingenuity is important when working dents out! So is learning the right "touch". It's easy to make your own NEW dents and create more work when hammering if you're not careful.
And DON'T use a screwdriver on the backside of the stainless to pop out a ding. That's unless you like working out more dents put in the piece by the sharp edges of the screwdriver blade...
BTW, you want to make your tools out of something other than STEEL most likely, like the hard plastic I've made mine from. That way it'll MOVE the stainless while working dents, but won't put MORE dents or marks in the metal...
And DON'T use a screwdriver on the backside of the stainless to pop out a ding. That's unless you like working out more dents put in the piece by the sharp edges of the screwdriver blade...
BTW, you want to make your tools out of something other than STEEL most likely, like the hard plastic I've made mine from. That way it'll MOVE the stainless while working dents, but won't put MORE dents or marks in the metal...
Bruce Anliker
-
- Road Runner (RM)
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:04 am
- Location: South Jersey
Best Chrome buffer and Polish?
Good info on the SS. There are lots of those parts, but aren't Bumpers Chromed. So leave that mechanical machine is the garage. It's time for a gentle hand, some patience, and TLC. And look for your smiling face in it as it get's shinny.
Dartomotive. (Mike)
Dartomotive. (Mike)
-
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:22 pm
- My Cars: 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
- Location: Colfax, IA
turtle wax chrome polish is good stuff...not sure on bumpers, but on my side pipes, they get to lookin white and rusty if you don't clean em a lot, and all it takes is rubbin the wax on, letting it sit for a couple minutes and wiping it off... look like NEW everytime (granted, we're not talking about a 40 year old bumper....maybe try some steel wool...i have some eagle one wadding for aluminum and chrome that works pretty good too