gas tank strap, pad insulation

[E86 GTX]

Thanks. I am kicking around the tar paper idea. It's a driver and not show and like you say no one will be able to see it right now.
. Thanks Again: Your Friend Ben

[CtownRunner]

If it is a driver and not show. Not able to be seen anyway.

Here is what I did.

Take bicycle inner tube and cut off the stem.
Lay the inner tube down the tank where it would touch the frame.

cheap, quiet, easy. Never seen unless you get a super long ass inner tube and let it dangle out one end or the other.

Good luck.

[71Satellite98661]

I'm in the same boat. I received a reproduction pad recently and it was closed cell foam like armor flex refrigerant line set insulation. I now can't located it after having the car painted. I considered some of the same flat dense rubber foam while in a chiller plant and saw the insulators wrapping the evaporator pipe fittings with this stuff but it was about 1/2" thick. After studying my original pad I think I too will go with the roofing felt, probably 30# and double it up. Thought about using spray adhesive or contact cement around the edges of the two pieces. For reference, measurements of the original 1971 pad is 22-3/8 x 25-3/4. Pad was 0.197" thick at the least compressed part.

[mopar71]

Great info,thanks guys. I am going to be dropping my tank to and have a roll of roofing tar paper left over from a roofing job. Thanks for the dimentions.

[dangina]

how about using some sort of sound deadner like dynamat?

[mopar71]

Looked at the Dynamat website, thats expensive to. I would rather use lizardskin.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=rela ... Yz2QsDXqWk

[dangina]

Looked at the Dynamat website, thats expensive to. I would rather use lizardskin.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=rela ... Yz2QsDXqWk

The stuff I use is called b-quiet. Its half the price of dynamat and its local

[72bluNblu]

Just skip the pad. It serves no purpose. If chaffing were an issue, then the straps would be insulated as well. They're far more likely to cause problems then where the tank contacts the car.

As for the fuel lines, I make all the connections and then fill the tank. If you raise the back of the car up on jackstands (big ones, think at least 6 ton), the tank ends up higher than the fuel pump and hopefully all of the lines. If you have a rubber or braided line going from the pump to the carb, just unhook it and lower it until you get fuel, then raise it back up and hook it up. That will get you fuel all the way up through your fuel pump. If you have the factory hard line from the fuel pump to the carb, you'll have to just disconnect the small rubber section from the rear hard line to the fuel pump. You'll have to be faster though, as you can't raise the end high enough to stop the flow of fuel.

If you have a high loop in the fuel line, sometimes that won't work. I have small vacuum hand pump from harbor freight that I use if gravity alone won't do the trick. Then just use a little starter fluid to fire the engine, the pump already has fuel. Engine fires right up and stays running, much more consistent than dumping fuel in the carb.

[mopar71]

Thanks for the tips!

[mopar71]

Finally got mine out.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x301 ... age-12.jpg

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x301 ... mage-9.jpg