Hi,
I would like to ask you guys what set of Polyurethane suspension rebuild-kit I should go for? -and where to buy it?
I've looked at some Just Suspension kits, anybody got experience with those?
Capsule
'71 RR suspension rebuild
Moderator: Site Administrators
-
road chicken
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 668
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: SE WI
The poly bushings are much better than the rubber. I have them on mine and like them. The car is much more stable.
The ONLY thing I wished I had done was get the Polygraphite ( graphite impregnated) bushings instead of the straight polyurethane. They squeak without the graphite.
I think I got mine from PST. i would think Just susupension would be just fine also.
Keep your old stuff handy. I know I had to re-use the outer shell on the upper control arm bushings.
The ONLY thing I wished I had done was get the Polygraphite ( graphite impregnated) bushings instead of the straight polyurethane. They squeak without the graphite.
I think I got mine from PST. i would think Just susupension would be just fine also.
Keep your old stuff handy. I know I had to re-use the outer shell on the upper control arm bushings.
4th generation B bodys- there is no substitute.
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs
Thanx Road Chicken,
yepp I did look at the polygraphite bushings, didn't realize the graphite was in there for lubrication.
Im not even sure what shape the rubberbushings on my car are in, but most likely they are hard and cracked.
Concerning roadhandling, Im also not sure what size torsionbars and anti-swaybar sits on the car so I guess I shouldnt buy new bushings before I have checked up on that. ..aaah, all them great little surprises
Capsule
yepp I did look at the polygraphite bushings, didn't realize the graphite was in there for lubrication.
Im not even sure what shape the rubberbushings on my car are in, but most likely they are hard and cracked.
Concerning roadhandling, Im also not sure what size torsionbars and anti-swaybar sits on the car so I guess I shouldnt buy new bushings before I have checked up on that. ..aaah, all them great little surprises
Capsule
-
road chicken
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 668
- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: SE WI
No problem. 
One note, be very VERY careful with the stock upper control arms and removing and re-installing the bushings. That area of the arm is very weak and can bend easily. I know- I did it- then bought Magnum Force upper arms.
FYI...The Mag units may be a good investment if your looking at lowering the car. They have addtional caster angle built in that you will lose if you drop the suspension- as seem to be popular when your running the bahn.
Just the bushings alone will make a huge difference in how the car "feels" because the pivot points of the suspension aren't changing. It doesn't take much to cause a degree or two in the caster angle ( Think ot a caster wheel) of the camber ( tilt in and out to the centerline of the car). That all adds up.
Don't forget the rear spring eye and shacklebushings either. Poly those too, for the same reasons.
. On our cars, the action of the rear spring actually steers the rear of the car toward the direction you are turning- so it actually "crabs" slightly through the turns. Helping to keep it stable and from going into oversteer.
As for the t-bars- Well for a street BB the .96 bars are a good comprimise for added cornering without having to wear a mouth piece. But I would try a rear anti-sway first. That really levels the car out. If it's not where you want if, then step up the t-bars. BB 0.96" SB 0.92".
Do the bushings first and see where you are, and if YOU like it. If not the t-bars, anti-sways are easily added or changed.
There was another thread on suspensions we had a short time back. Check out the link to get some good info education on our suspensions.
One note, be very VERY careful with the stock upper control arms and removing and re-installing the bushings. That area of the arm is very weak and can bend easily. I know- I did it- then bought Magnum Force upper arms.
FYI...The Mag units may be a good investment if your looking at lowering the car. They have addtional caster angle built in that you will lose if you drop the suspension- as seem to be popular when your running the bahn.
Just the bushings alone will make a huge difference in how the car "feels" because the pivot points of the suspension aren't changing. It doesn't take much to cause a degree or two in the caster angle ( Think ot a caster wheel) of the camber ( tilt in and out to the centerline of the car). That all adds up.
Don't forget the rear spring eye and shacklebushings either. Poly those too, for the same reasons.
. On our cars, the action of the rear spring actually steers the rear of the car toward the direction you are turning- so it actually "crabs" slightly through the turns. Helping to keep it stable and from going into oversteer.
As for the t-bars- Well for a street BB the .96 bars are a good comprimise for added cornering without having to wear a mouth piece. But I would try a rear anti-sway first. That really levels the car out. If it's not where you want if, then step up the t-bars. BB 0.96" SB 0.92".
Do the bushings first and see where you are, and if YOU like it. If not the t-bars, anti-sways are easily added or changed.
There was another thread on suspensions we had a short time back. Check out the link to get some good info education on our suspensions.
4th generation B bodys- there is no substitute.
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs