Road Runner Nest

I have noticed on my 71 RR that it takes about 5 or 6 seconds for my factory oil pressure gauge to read. It comes up slow but then seems to be fine. Checked with a mechanical gauge it shows instant pressure upon start up. I then changed the factory sender same results, slow to register when starting. I don't remember the factory gauge being so slow to register. The wiring is in good shape and I have done the Mad Electric modifications. Maybe it is fine just wondering?

My oil pressure and fuel gauge both come up slow. I'm not to quick anymore either.

What is the Mad electrical mod, please? Maybe the voltage regulator for the gauges is working slowly, I would change to one of the new digital ones from Real Time Engineering. Does your car have the resistance wire that goes between the sending unit and the wiring harness? I don't know what that wire does, but my car has one, and it is shown in the wiring schematic in the service manual.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml
I used the search function to find this.

Oh, ya, now I remember it. Thanks.

I saw somewhere that it might be the anti drain valve on the oil filter not working properly. I will change the filter and see.

Some filters don't have a anti drain valve, try a completely different brand, or number.

71bird wrote:Some filters don't have a anti drain valve, try a completely different brand, or number.

A friend of mine, who was a mechanic (before he retired) and worked on a lot of cars back in the day, had suggested to me that instead of buying the filters that advertise the most filtering, to buy the cheaper ones instead. His thinking was, that the cheaper ones would restrict flow less and the oil was changed frequently (as per miles) anyway. Does this make sense?

Actually yes. Back in the day, I noticed a difference in oil pressure between a Fram HP1, and a regular Fram filter. I think the HP1 had less pressure, but proabaly flowed better. Now a days, most ALL filters by pass most of the oil anyway. The bypass valve opens at way to low of a pressure. Mopar has a filter that doesn't do this, but I don't know which one it is, maybe a Viper filter.

I would think you would get better flow with the HP1. Actually I was thinking the difference between the old Fram and the Extra Guard filters. I think they must all be the extra guard ones now. Apparently, the HP1 filters are available, but I don't think I could squeeze one between the headers. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the oil get to the pressure gauge after going through the filter.

Small block, or big block?

Small block.

Don't know about a small block. Look in the service manual, it should tell.

Doesn't matter if its a small or big block, the sender / circuit is almost identical for the gauge. It is normal for it to take a few seconds to respond to the resistance change at the sender. The fuel gauge works in a similar way. it keep the gauges from bouncing with each little change in pressure.

rradar71 wrote:http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... uges.shtml
I used the search function to find this.

When I had my cluster re-built, I had the ammeter replaced with a voltmeter. Then When the instrument wiring was installed, I bypassed the ammeter wires, cut, spliced together, shrink wrap and called it done. The cluster doesn't look altered what so ever. Wish I could figure out re-sizing pictures to show