Brake questions
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- rr6pak
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Brake questions
I have some questions and I'm looking for advice on brakes for my 71. I have HD power drums. I want to change it over to discs.
1. I was told that my MC and booster will not work with the discs. Where can I get a new one. I'm looking at keeping an original look to the engine bay.
2. Anyone use a "kit"? Only thing about some of those kits is I dont like the booster (Chevy?)
3. If no kit, does anyone know what year of car models with disc will work on mine (ours)? I know theres a parts list somewhere that has a list of parts.
If I cant piece together a disc swap and consider a "kit", will an original or as near OE booster/MC work with a "kit"? Does this make sense? Its 2:30 in the a.m so bear with me if it doesnt...lol
1. I was told that my MC and booster will not work with the discs. Where can I get a new one. I'm looking at keeping an original look to the engine bay.
2. Anyone use a "kit"? Only thing about some of those kits is I dont like the booster (Chevy?)
3. If no kit, does anyone know what year of car models with disc will work on mine (ours)? I know theres a parts list somewhere that has a list of parts.
If I cant piece together a disc swap and consider a "kit", will an original or as near OE booster/MC work with a "kit"? Does this make sense? Its 2:30 in the a.m so bear with me if it doesnt...lol
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- GTX (RS)
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Re: Brake questions
I've never used a kit, but converted a couple of cars to discs.
I believe your booster will work, I'd try it before buying another.
For exact match, you need front knuckles(spindles), rotors,calipers with brackets,hoses, and master cylinder from '70-'72 B or E body.
Almost Identical will be '73-4 E or '73-'76 A body knuckles and rotors. These have larger wheel
bearings, which will allow you to run either the stock '73- 11" rotor, or the '75- 11.75" B body rotor(with
different caliper brackets. Just don't plan on running 14" wheels with the 11.75" rotor set up.
Lots of different master cylinders will look correct. Just find one with lines on the same side as your drum brake set-up.
Price new rotors before making your final decision. Quite often the '73- stuff is a lot cheaper.
We can be more specific once you see what parts you can find.
And I agree 100% on your Chevy booster/master cylinder comments. Not on my Mopar!
Let us know how it goes.
I believe your booster will work, I'd try it before buying another.
For exact match, you need front knuckles(spindles), rotors,calipers with brackets,hoses, and master cylinder from '70-'72 B or E body.
Almost Identical will be '73-4 E or '73-'76 A body knuckles and rotors. These have larger wheel
bearings, which will allow you to run either the stock '73- 11" rotor, or the '75- 11.75" B body rotor(with
different caliper brackets. Just don't plan on running 14" wheels with the 11.75" rotor set up.
Lots of different master cylinders will look correct. Just find one with lines on the same side as your drum brake set-up.
Price new rotors before making your final decision. Quite often the '73- stuff is a lot cheaper.
We can be more specific once you see what parts you can find.
And I agree 100% on your Chevy booster/master cylinder comments. Not on my Mopar!
Let us know how it goes.
- sdweatherman
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Re: Brake questions
Mopar Action did an extensive article on converting 62-72 B bodies to disc. The article can be found here:
http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html
This article shows how you can convert to discs using later model parts (mid to late 70s stuff). The advantage to this is the replacement rotors are much much cheaper. Original or replacement, correct for 70-72, rotors are very expensive. Napa has them for around $160 ea.
While later model rotors are closer to $30-40. I am going the original equipment option for my front drum to disc upgrade since I have located spindles, calipers, and rotors for very reasonable. Good luck with whatever you decide!
http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html
This article shows how you can convert to discs using later model parts (mid to late 70s stuff). The advantage to this is the replacement rotors are much much cheaper. Original or replacement, correct for 70-72, rotors are very expensive. Napa has them for around $160 ea.

1971 GY8 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus
1971 GB7 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus w/factory Sunroof
1972 EV2 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus w/factory Sunroof
1974 KB5 Plymouth Road Runner GTX Dealer Announcement car
1971 GB7 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus w/factory Sunroof
1972 EV2 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus w/factory Sunroof
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- 72RoadRunnerGTX
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Re: Brake questions
Keep in mind DoctorDiff (moparts) makes bearing adapters that allow the later/larger rotors to fit the 70-72' spindles. With the correct later caliper adapters, it's a pretty straight bolt on conversion. Recent info posted here.

Re: Brake questions
Don't forget to change the proportioning valve to one from a disc car,or adjustable one.
Your booster should work just change the master cylinder.
Any spindle,rotor,caliper set up from 73 up b,f,j,m,r body cars will bolt on.We have done this twice,IT WORKS FINE.
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml
BRIAN
Your booster should work just change the master cylinder.
Any spindle,rotor,caliper set up from 73 up b,f,j,m,r body cars will bolt on.We have done this twice,IT WORKS FINE.
http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/spindles.shtml
BRIAN
Its not numbers matching
It doesn't run on pump gas
And it doesn't purr like a kitten
11.73 at 115mph
It doesn't run on pump gas
And it doesn't purr like a kitten
11.73 at 115mph
- rr6pak
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Re: Brake questions
Thanks to all that replied! Geat info. I was told that if I wanted an original appearing booster, it would have to be for a disc set up?
. Yet I dont know or see the difference, now I'm questioning the person. I know thw MC would need to be changed. Also, I was told to make sure I get steel, not cast iron knuckles.
Doug and Brian thanks for the links. My car will be going into the body shop soon after when I get home next month. I wanted to start researching and acquiring the parts for the swap so I have everything needed. I'm gonna read in depth the articles and postings made so I get the right stuff.

Doug and Brian thanks for the links. My car will be going into the body shop soon after when I get home next month. I wanted to start researching and acquiring the parts for the swap so I have everything needed. I'm gonna read in depth the articles and postings made so I get the right stuff.
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71 74
go here
http://challenger.mpoli.fi/board/topic-5442
#3579272, Midland Ross #C4600MC is the one for power disc

the1971 proportioning valve is not same one as the 72-74 one
http://challenger.mpoli.fi/board/topic-5442
#3579272, Midland Ross #C4600MC is the one for power disc


the1971 proportioning valve is not same one as the 72-74 one
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Plymouth's gonna getcha!
There are 3 things that will live forever, cockroaches, Keith Richards, & slant 6
- rr6pak
- GTX (RS)
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- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 10:29 pm
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Re: Brake questions
I was told that if I get the knuckles, to make sure theyre steel, not cast iron. Anyone know if this info is accurate? Know where to find the right ones?
Also, what about the upper and lower control arms? I'd like to use tubular upper and the original for the bottom.
Also, what about the upper and lower control arms? I'd like to use tubular upper and the original for the bottom.
