Dash board removal
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Dash board removal
I am working on restoring a 71 GTX. While removing the cotter pin from the power brake unit I had my self a good look at the inside of the dash, and it looks quite formidable to remember where all the lines wires etc run. My question; is it hard to remove the dash pad only from the dash board and expose the inside of the dash board so I can take pictures of how everything is routed? I hope there is someone out there that can tell me where to look for the locations where the dash pad is attached to the dash board. Thanx Larry
- Dave
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- My Cars: 71 Plymouth Road Runner (Project Blue Bird)
71 Satellite Sebring Plus (383/2bbl/auto) - Location: Cleveland, OH
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Hi Larry!
Actually the dash really isn't as bad as it may initially seem. Though if you have an A/C car, I can assure you that taking the dash pad off the car will be a lot easier with the dash out of the car, versus in the car. Actually, taking just the dash pad off won't net you the view you hope to get. You'll still have plenty of dash frame in the way of any good view "into" the dash. Actually the dash doesn't come out all that badly. You need to disconnect everything from the bulkhead connector, and detach it from the firewall, drop the column, undo all the wiring harness connections that go to anything other than the dash (e-break, brake pedal, HVAC, radio antenna, etc). Then if you remove the metal defroster duct/speaker grille, you'll see 4 larger bolts. It take a couple socket extensions and a univeral joint, but you can get them out without pulling the windshield. Then there are 2 more bolts, one on either end behind the kick panels, right next to the door. Just loosen those, and the whole dash should just rotate back and lift out.
What are you looking to do? Replace the wiring harness? Completely restore the dash? Restore just the insturment cluster?
Actually the dash really isn't as bad as it may initially seem. Though if you have an A/C car, I can assure you that taking the dash pad off the car will be a lot easier with the dash out of the car, versus in the car. Actually, taking just the dash pad off won't net you the view you hope to get. You'll still have plenty of dash frame in the way of any good view "into" the dash. Actually the dash doesn't come out all that badly. You need to disconnect everything from the bulkhead connector, and detach it from the firewall, drop the column, undo all the wiring harness connections that go to anything other than the dash (e-break, brake pedal, HVAC, radio antenna, etc). Then if you remove the metal defroster duct/speaker grille, you'll see 4 larger bolts. It take a couple socket extensions and a univeral joint, but you can get them out without pulling the windshield. Then there are 2 more bolts, one on either end behind the kick panels, right next to the door. Just loosen those, and the whole dash should just rotate back and lift out.
What are you looking to do? Replace the wiring harness? Completely restore the dash? Restore just the insturment cluster?
Dave
Founder - The Road Runner Nest
71 Plymouth Road Runner (Project Blue Bird)
71 Satellite Sebring Plus (383/2bbl/auto)
Founder - The Road Runner Nest
71 Plymouth Road Runner (Project Blue Bird)
71 Satellite Sebring Plus (383/2bbl/auto)
I have owned this GTX for over 24 years. I enjoyed crusin and showing it for about 10 years than the kids came and the car has sat for over 10 years in my garage. I plan on removing everything down to the bare frame and than rebuild it all. The car is a curious yellow,auto with air.
I bought it just around the time my old crusin buddy John Papas bought his first Superbird. There used to be a 3rd member that hung around He owned a 71 Hemi Super Bee that was tragically lost in a warehouse fire.
Oh well now I am getting lost in the past. Hope to add some new memories and experiiences with my car in the future. Larry
I bought it just around the time my old crusin buddy John Papas bought his first Superbird. There used to be a 3rd member that hung around He owned a 71 Hemi Super Bee that was tragically lost in a warehouse fire.
Oh well now I am getting lost in the past. Hope to add some new memories and experiiences with my car in the future. Larry
- road chicken
- GTX (RS)
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- Joined: Thu Oct 09, 2003 11:21 pm
- Location: SE WI
If that is the case- removing the dash as an assembly is the way to go-( rememeber- that is how chrysler installed it. The wiring is simpler than it looks- as the harrness almost rolls right into place. If you get stuck the factory service manual will clear up any routing questions. But in my experience... the harness almost falls into place. If you do it as an assembly the Bulkhead connector and a few other connectors,( Rear lights under the Dr side Kick panel, fan motor behind the glovebox and maybe one or two under the Pass Kick panel) are the only connections that have to be done. Much MUCH simpler unless your a glutton for punishment with a degree in yoga
Be aware of the routing of the Speedometer cable and vent cables ( if your car had them) that can get ugly trying to run those once the dash assembly is in. TRUST ME!!!
Be aware of the routing of the Speedometer cable and vent cables ( if your car had them) that can get ugly trying to run those once the dash assembly is in. TRUST ME!!!
4th generation B bodys- there is no substitute.
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs
68 383, Street Demon 750, RPM top end,484/284/108 poo poo cam "-5 spd 4:10 SG, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs