1972 Satellite w/ 318 AT
Online states Carter BBD
Hayne's shows illustration as Rochester 2GV
Carb is stamped as being mfg by Carter...
http://users.adelphia.net/~test_account/carb.html
(click pics to enlarge)
What carb is this?
Moderator: Site Administrators
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JosephGiannini
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 9:40 am
- My Cars: 1972 roadrunner 340 4 barrel with 727
- Location: washington dc
I have the rebuild schematics
email me neoakira3@comcast.net and I will see about emailing you jpegs.
I own a 340 850hp Dick landy industries spec engine god rest his soul.
A Mopar god Is dead.
1972 roadrunner.
A Mopar god Is dead.
1972 roadrunner.
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JosephGiannini
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Tue Oct 21, 2003 9:40 am
- My Cars: 1972 roadrunner 340 4 barrel with 727
- Location: washington dc
chrysler parts exchange
From the tag
ID NUMBER:6150
TYPE:CARTER BBD TWO BARREL
USAGE: 1972 318 CI TWO BARREL WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
WITHOUUT NOX
ID NUMBER:6150
TYPE:CARTER BBD TWO BARREL
USAGE: 1972 318 CI TWO BARREL WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
WITHOUUT NOX
I own a 340 850hp Dick landy industries spec engine god rest his soul.
A Mopar god Is dead.
1972 roadrunner.
A Mopar god Is dead.
1972 roadrunner.
Does anyone have any information on how to make adgustments to this type of carb? I was reading other posts and am interested in advancing my timing and adjusting the idle and mix ratio but have no info on the carb.
71383bee wrote:The 72 cars were way retarded in timing. Most were set around TDC or below. Make sure the car is warm and blocked. Start the car in idle with the vacum advance port plugged and a vacum gage in a manifold port and a timing light. If you don't have a vacum gage then go get one because next to a timing light it is one of the most useful tools we gearheads can use. Set initial timing @ idle to around 12 degrees BTDC. You should notice an imediate improvement in throttle response and the car should pick up in idle. In fact after timing is set you should reset the idle and mixture on the carb becaue it my need a bit more juice. Usually this is a pretty good setup to setting timing. If you really want to fine tune it you can run the motor up to about 2500RPM and adjust the total timing to around 34 degrees BTDC but this can be hard to do if you are by yourself. I've found that by setting it initially @ 12 BTDC you get farily close to 34 total + or - 2 degrees. This will probably be the most noticeable jump. If it is still close to stock it should run like a raped ape when it is set properly. If the car starts to detonate then it is advanced too far and it needs to be brought back. I did this on my puny 2BBl 318 before the rebuild and man what a difference.
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71383bee
The same rules apply to all carbs really. For my 318 2Bbl I did this with good results.
First off are you familiar with the locations of the idle adjusting screw and idle mixture screws? There are two mixture screws on the bottom of the base plate facing forward. Both should be initially set at 1.5 turns out from full seat. To do this turn them in all of the way until they stop (don't crank on them) and then back them out 1.5 turns. To set mixture you back out or turn in to get the highest and steadiest vacum reading at idle. Make surethat all of the other carb adjustments are made too. Do you have a 71 or 72 shop manual? It outlines these adjustments in detail.
As for timing when the car is warm and runing in idle in nuetral (blocked or course) check the initial timing. If it is stock I bet it is close to TDC. To set timing use a 1/2" wrench and loosen the bolt on the hold down clamp at the distributor. To advance the timing you need to rotate the distribtor oposite the direction of rotation. I think small blocks rotate counterclockwise so you need to rotate clockwise. Retard is vice versa. You might have to play with it because my memory is a bit rusty...it could be counter clockwise. This is easier with 2 sets of hands because while your turning the distributor someone should be watching the timing gun. This is even simpler if you have a dial advance diming light. They are worth the extra 10 bucks. Craftsman still makes a decent gun. Just set the dial it 12 and turn the distriutor till the marks line up at 0 on the balancer tab. Let us know if you need help...
First off are you familiar with the locations of the idle adjusting screw and idle mixture screws? There are two mixture screws on the bottom of the base plate facing forward. Both should be initially set at 1.5 turns out from full seat. To do this turn them in all of the way until they stop (don't crank on them) and then back them out 1.5 turns. To set mixture you back out or turn in to get the highest and steadiest vacum reading at idle. Make surethat all of the other carb adjustments are made too. Do you have a 71 or 72 shop manual? It outlines these adjustments in detail.
As for timing when the car is warm and runing in idle in nuetral (blocked or course) check the initial timing. If it is stock I bet it is close to TDC. To set timing use a 1/2" wrench and loosen the bolt on the hold down clamp at the distributor. To advance the timing you need to rotate the distribtor oposite the direction of rotation. I think small blocks rotate counterclockwise so you need to rotate clockwise. Retard is vice versa. You might have to play with it because my memory is a bit rusty...it could be counter clockwise. This is easier with 2 sets of hands because while your turning the distributor someone should be watching the timing gun. This is even simpler if you have a dial advance diming light. They are worth the extra 10 bucks. Craftsman still makes a decent gun. Just set the dial it 12 and turn the distriutor till the marks line up at 0 on the balancer tab. Let us know if you need help...
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71383bee
Yep that will work. Those adjustments ensure that the air door is adjusted properly as well as the choke. These carbs are very simple to rebuild. If all of the adjustments are good then you can begin by adjusting the timing and idle/mixture. When adjusting the timing the car should pick up in idle so after the timing is set go back and reset the carburator. After that check the timing again. You may have to adjust each a little bit until they are both in sync. One word of advice though. If you have emissions testing in your area be sure to re adjust the timing back down towards it's original setting. You may need it set that way to pass.
I have a 72 sat that ran hot, dieseled, and had occasional missfires when romping on the throttle. All of that went away when I adjusted the timing and switched to electronic ignition. And that was even on a 110k 318 with so much sludge in it I'm amazed it ran. I've also seen it done on a 72 440 New yorker too with similar results.
I have a 72 sat that ran hot, dieseled, and had occasional missfires when romping on the throttle. All of that went away when I adjusted the timing and switched to electronic ignition. And that was even on a 110k 318 with so much sludge in it I'm amazed it ran. I've also seen it done on a 72 440 New yorker too with similar results.
