heater core/radiator questions

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ralley72
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heater core/radiator questions

Post by ralley72 » Wed Dec 27, 2017 9:13 pm

Who/where to purchase correct heater core? Need to replace mine,1973 non-air. looked at the ones at rockauto, looked like junk. O'rielly's doesn't have them for non-air cars.
Also want to go with a new aluminum radiator with electric fans, looking for suggestion on where to source/buy, what company has the best ones, or a setup you have had the best results with.

Thanks,

Mike

71bird
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by 71bird » Wed Dec 27, 2017 11:19 pm

Send your original to Glen Ray radiators for repair.
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road chicken
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by road chicken » Wed Dec 27, 2017 11:20 pm

I have a piece of junk out of Rock Auto cooking me out of mine every spring and fall for the past 4 years. Why not take it down to a local radiator shop? If the tanks are still good they should be able to re-core if for you.
No clue on the Al stuff. Good luck
4th generation B bodys- there is no substitute.
71 383, Street Demon 750, RPM intake and heads, "-5 speed 4:10 sure grip, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Cop Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs

ralley72
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by ralley72 » Thu Dec 28, 2017 8:28 pm

There is a radiator repair shop about 50 miles away, they may be able to help.
Meant no offence on the rockauto one, glad yours is working good for you.
I did check on the Griffin with dual fans, kinda high priced. Anybody have experience with the Griffin radiators?

Mike

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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by 71bird » Fri Dec 29, 2017 10:54 am

Go over to the moparts web site, and read the posts where people with aftermarket aluminum radiators with electric fans have trouble keeping a engine cool. All that electric fan stuff is for modern cars. You can buy an al radiator that doesn't fit, or put a good 26 inch stock one with a 7 blade fan and a shroud and forget about it, besides the factory stuff just bolts together.
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dangina
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by dangina » Sat Dec 30, 2017 2:02 am

I bought one from classic industries, my only complaint is I had to re solder the little plate that is inbetween the 2 inlet/outlet pipes, so far so good, going on 2 years, and I autox my car but it doesn't get a whole lotta miles on her yet
400 stroked to 470ci, 3:55 Eaton true trac, slightly upgraded suspension lol

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71_bronze_gtx
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by 71_bronze_gtx » Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:10 am

I was a manufacturing engineer for one of the big 3 (the one with four letters) for 24 years, in the aluminum heater core and radiator department, so I have some knowledge of these systems.

The Chrysler parts catalog does show different part numbers for A/C vs. non-A/C. It is possible, maybe even likely that the actual core itself is the same but the foam or rubber seals attached to it were different, because the assembly is different with the evaporator core added. Part numbers - non-A/C 3579171. A/C 3441180.

I don't know where to get a copper-brass replacement. You might find a shop to recore it. Is it leaking, or clogged?

System design of both the heater and radiator consists of three major things. Effective surface area of the heat exchanger, flow of air over that surface, and flow rate of the coolant. If you put in a new heat exchanger that is a signifcantly tighter pack of the fins in the core, air flow drops, particularly at higher fan speeds.

For aluminum radiators, I like the Champion brand. They make them to fit both 22" and 26" small block and big block, but may need slight alterations.

My example: my 72 340 'cuda, which when I bought it had a big cam, headers, high flow water pump, thermostatic clutch fan + 14" electric fan, etc. but had a POS aftermarket 22" copper-brass 2 row radiator with aftermarket shroud, which is more like a safety guard. Temperature liked to creep up over 200 on a hot day in traffic. The electric fan did virtually no good at all.

I put in a Champion 4-row 22" radiator and kept the shroud, but deleted the electric fan. No more rising temperature. 185 degree stat., and temp stays below 190. Paid about $230. A Be Cool brand radiator was around $600. Ouch. Champion has a website so you can see what product you want, but the best prices seem to be on ebay.

One reason an old engine may start to overheat is the internal cooling passages start to clog up with sludge and rust. I have had success in the past using Prestone Super Radiator Flush, letting it run for 10 hours.

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road chicken
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by road chicken » Fri Feb 02, 2018 7:50 pm

All good insights. Keeping it fresh is a good idea, every two years flush it and replace the fluids. Taking a presssure washer and GENTLY cleaning the debris out of the fins helps too.

No offense on the ROCK AUTO observation. Heater cores weren't every very pretty. Just letting you know they have been working for me very well. I have a 94 voyager 3.0 mitsushitty that had no heat- fixed the stat first- which then built up enough pressure to blow out the heater core, ( as things usually go). Same thing- uglier than sin but it works well. Even with the -16" we had earlier in the season it got the windows clear and van livable in 10 miles of highway driving.
4th generation B bodys- there is no substitute.
71 383, Street Demon 750, RPM intake and heads, "-5 speed 4:10 sure grip, 4whl disk, Helwig Anti-Sway, Poly bushings,Firm Feel Cop Box, HD Linkage, 1" t-bars, 7 leafs Springs

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rr6pak
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by rr6pak » Tue Apr 10, 2018 6:54 pm

Glen Ray and be done
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josephgiannini3
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Re: heater core/radiator questions

Post by josephgiannini3 » Mon Apr 16, 2018 11:54 am

why not a replacement aluminum with dual electric fans hooked to a relay and ckt breaker..

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