Solenoid for Trunk Mounted battery

[dangina]

I was thinking of using it for the starter feed. That way I can have it just above the starter for an easy run. I looked it up and 3/8" stud is the same size as a 2/0 wire. So their should be no voltage drop. I was wondering is 0 guage big enough for that run? I thought I might go 1/0 or 2/0 just to be safe..

[dangina]

also I was wondering the light brown 12awg wire that goes from the starter relay to the ford solenoid and to the starter in your diagram, couldn't you just have it going to the ford solenoid and do a jumper on the starter like in this diagram? I've seen it done in a few diagrams now:

[road chicken]

If its rated for it by all means. I used the hole in the firewall so I didn't drill another in it. 0 or 2/0 is fine. I bought a kit out of jegs and that was a 1/0. Never had a problem so far but if you want to go ahead.
The jumper wire at the starter is fine also. The only thing is.. if the Ford solenoid welds shut it will keep running the starter until the battery is disconnected. A remote possibility but I prefer the redundant configuration to eliminate that just cause I can. I'm also not using a cutoff switch. A lot of people run it jumped at the starter with no problems.

[dangina]

That's good to know, I never thought about the solenoid failing and what it would do. I was thinking about using a cutoff switch in the trunk just when I go to store it/and to be a theft deterant. Also I picked up a electric trunk release, I thought if you had your car parked and you hit the cut off switch it would kill the power for the trunk release, making it harder for thieves to get into the trunk to turn on the disconnect to start the car. I may or may not use this, haven't decided yet. I'll probably play it safe and go with the 1/0 or 2/0 wire, depends what I can get a deal on

[road chicken]

I use a security system that isn't readily evident, and it keeps the car in place and notifies me. However I used to just pop the trunk and disconnect the (-) cable when I left it for any amount of time. Same thing as you're contemplating. For long storage, ( like over the winter months)- either pull the battery or charge it once a month by charger or running the car is until fully warmed up. 90% of a batteries power ( Flooded Lead acid) is between 12.8 and 12.4V resting voltage. If it drops below 12.0 charge it before using. A long story, but it will help keep the battery chemistry at optimum performance, especially on " Starting" type batteries. A guy named John Bedini has a sight called Tesla chargers that actually pulse charges batteries to bring them up to snuff after being drawn down too far. I have built his "Bedini Wheel" circuits and have learned a lot on how these " dead" Lead acid Batteries can be brought back by using his techniques- But that's a subject for a different time.

The solenoid failure is a rare occurrence, even then they are made to fail " Safe" and not conduct power. But it could happen where it does weld, (Although very remote possibility and this can be either solenoid) so I figured why not build in the extra safety factor since it was available.

[road chicken]

Almost done with it- and you can read the notes.

I would have been done, but the mods to the chicken took a little longer than I hoped. I did get it out Sunday though and am VERY happy with the results. So your waiting for a good cause and I just wasn't out screwin off.

[dangina]

sounds good! I should be ready to do this before the end of may

[road chicken]

Ok, well from the thoroughly chapped hide dept..... I have it all done but the quality between transfers is killing the ability to read the diagram. It got worse the bigger I went. Anyway- PM Me with an e-mail address and I will see if that works. If so then the others can hit me up and I'll get it out to them.

[dangina]

Sure thing! I also have one last question. I will be running a electric choke. how do I wire that in?

[road chicken]

The electric choke can be wired into any of the dark blue "run" wires under the hood. The one to the Voltage regulator, Alt Field ,or ignition ballast resistor are all joined together, so any of those will do. That's for stock or modified like the diagram shows. I tapped into the blue field wire because it runs right there along the valve cover.