sidepipe glasspacks
Moderator: Site Administrators
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metalhead608
sidepipe glasspacks
has anyone else seen the new glasspack side pipes that bolt right up to your headers? they are not on the cherrybomb website. anyway i don't run headers but are there extensions for manifolds that will mate up with these to work? i always wanted some glasspacks to exit in front of the rear tires and these are an all in one package, but the ones i saw are of course in cherry bomb red. a little krylon
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landon1
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:22 pm
- My Cars: 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
- Location: Colfax, IA
you mean side exit? side pipes like mine you have to run pipe to from the headers or manifolds.
the side exit pipes are pretty much universal...header reducers (bolt to header collector), then 24" of straight pipe, an 18-24" glasspack muffler, then a 45 or 90 degree bent pipe, and then a pipe extension or a long tip. basically, you can build your own, they sell each piece individually, or you can build your own, OR you can buy the kit from JCWhitneys...you can get it WITHOUT the muffler and put on cherrybombs
only 103 bux plus cost of the cherrybombs...i'm sure you could just buy the parts cheaper, but this way it'd all come together, no fabricating (maybe) lol
the side exit pipes are pretty much universal...header reducers (bolt to header collector), then 24" of straight pipe, an 18-24" glasspack muffler, then a 45 or 90 degree bent pipe, and then a pipe extension or a long tip. basically, you can build your own, they sell each piece individually, or you can build your own, OR you can buy the kit from JCWhitneys...you can get it WITHOUT the muffler and put on cherrybombs
only 103 bux plus cost of the cherrybombs...i'm sure you could just buy the parts cheaper, but this way it'd all come together, no fabricating (maybe) lol-
metalhead608
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landon1
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:22 pm
- My Cars: 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
- Location: Colfax, IA
oohhhhh i got ya...ya i thought about doin purple hornies like this...just a muffler that bolts onto the header....will pry quiet down open headers, but idk by how much....you could pry have pipes made to run them from manifolds, but honestly, i'd just get some headers...i have hedmans and they were a breeze to install really and performance gain is noticeable...look in the jegs catalog...i might have seen them in there...i know they have the purple hornies...plus, on HPTV, they advertise some parts that aren't quite available yet, so you may hafta wait for awhile
PS they're actually supposed to turn down to blow the exhaust away from the car as much as possible - you could mount them so they blew out the side, but pry a greater chance of leaking into the car (wishing i had a puking smiley for this lol)
PS they're actually supposed to turn down to blow the exhaust away from the car as much as possible - you could mount them so they blew out the side, but pry a greater chance of leaking into the car (wishing i had a puking smiley for this lol)
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landon1
- GTX (RS)
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 10:22 pm
- My Cars: 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
- Location: Colfax, IA
nope...everything on mine is stock replcement...to install was pretty easy....lots of words when typed out though
PASSENGER: place jack under motor (use board to keep from ruinig pan), then loosen motor mount. jack up motor as far as you can...then place header in from the top (i gave it a lil side palm smack to get it in)...it's helpful to have someone hold the headers while you install the bolts (USE PERMATEX ON HEADER BOLTS OR THEY WILL LEAK antifreeze everywhere- also used gorilla snot to hold header gasket on) bolt on, lower motor back down, put bolt back in.
DRIVERS: leave jack under motor (may adjust a lil more towards the driver's side for extra leverage)...loosen starter bolts (have someone hold starter in place from above). feed header in from the bottom (underneath the car)once header is up, there will be an exchange - you grab the starter and helper holds the header in place. re-mount the starter (yeah, this gets your shoulder muscles workin holdin that beast up to bolt it in. after it's back in place and mounted, start bolting on the headers.
if you have studs to mount exhaust on, this should still work..my old heads had studs, but were cut-off short in order to mount headers (jsut throw on a lock washer and nut
another option would be this...if you ahve factory pipes coming off your manifolds, you can cut them, and mount a turndown muffler - it would be the same thing, but without the 3 bolt flange and flare...would be a "slip on' style
PASSENGER: place jack under motor (use board to keep from ruinig pan), then loosen motor mount. jack up motor as far as you can...then place header in from the top (i gave it a lil side palm smack to get it in)...it's helpful to have someone hold the headers while you install the bolts (USE PERMATEX ON HEADER BOLTS OR THEY WILL LEAK antifreeze everywhere- also used gorilla snot to hold header gasket on) bolt on, lower motor back down, put bolt back in.
DRIVERS: leave jack under motor (may adjust a lil more towards the driver's side for extra leverage)...loosen starter bolts (have someone hold starter in place from above). feed header in from the bottom (underneath the car)once header is up, there will be an exchange - you grab the starter and helper holds the header in place. re-mount the starter (yeah, this gets your shoulder muscles workin holdin that beast up to bolt it in. after it's back in place and mounted, start bolting on the headers.
if you have studs to mount exhaust on, this should still work..my old heads had studs, but were cut-off short in order to mount headers (jsut throw on a lock washer and nut
another option would be this...if you ahve factory pipes coming off your manifolds, you can cut them, and mount a turndown muffler - it would be the same thing, but without the 3 bolt flange and flare...would be a "slip on' style
