Map light lenses and assemblies

[jsbrown]

Hi,

I'm getting tooling costs for having the 71/2 map light lens assemblies reproduced, and I'm looking for any input anyone may have on this. For now, I'm looking at the base 71/2 part and not later versions with the seat belt warning display. I have costs associated with the base/lens/bulb holder, and I'm awaiting the "damage" associated with the switch/wiring/connector. Until that comes in, I can't give a ballpark figure on what these are going to cost, but from what I know so far, its looking reasonble to do this.

That said though, if just the lens was offered, how interested would folks be? The manufacturer doesn't want to go that route as the lens is installed via heat adhesion, but it wouldn't be that difficult to cut the old lens out and glue a new one in place on an original assembly.... and it'd be impossible to tell you did that unless you took the assy back out of the car. That would at least get us away from the torched look to the lenses! I'm not sure everyone shares my opinion of it being OK to cut/paste a new lens in though. Getting a new assy that's not warped sure would have its benefits as well...

If this pans out, I'm going to end up with a minimum of 200 of these. Any opinions on demand? I know I'll want 3

Thanks,
Jeff

[bruce]

I'd probably have to go one too---the one I have is warped. Imagine that!

[Eric]

A lot of them have bad switches too. Might make sense to sell the assembly as well as the individual lense. I'd probably be in for one assembly depending on price.

[jsbrown]

Going forward with the project! Best case scenario is 3-4 months. Break even pricing at this point is looking like $xxxxx for the full assembly (light/lens/switch/wiring/connector/screws) and $xxxxxx for a blank panel ... all barring any unforeseen disasters and assuming I did my math right

[jsbrown]

Got the first couple of base protos this week (a blank and a lighted base w/ fader hole). Next step is texture matching and moving on to the lens. The detail is matching GREAT. Only difference is the bulb mount. The switch assy is dead on. Dimensionally excellent. Slightly stiffer than an original piece to boot, so it should hold up better on the sagging problem.

100_3323s.JPG (49.93 KiB) Viewed 12443 times

[jsbrown]

Backside of switch compared to original...

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[jsbrown]

New blank, original assy, and new base for fader/lighted version.

100_3322s.JPG (54.95 KiB) Viewed 12443 times

[Eric]

Very cool Jeff. I remember spending a LONG time finding one that wasn't warped and didn't have a cracked/faced lense. Even then, the switch isn't all that good.

[jsbrown]

Question for folks on the switch. The proto doesn't have the wiring terminals installed in the switch, so perhaps that's the reason for this, but it acts like a two position switch. I would always mess with these to get the switch to stop in the middle so the light didn't ever come on. Was the switch intended to be a 3 position switch or is that how a fatigued assembly acts? I'm confirming with the manufacturer too to find out if they think this is an artifact of the terminals not being in place yet.

Thanks!
Jeff

[bruce]

Can't answer your question Jeff, but that sure is a nice looking piece!

[quapman]

What kind of plastic are you using?

[rr6pak]

Very cool, Jeff. I have a NOS lens still in the original package. Problem is, I can't remember right off hand where I put the darn thing. I also have one, maybe two, that has the fader switch in them.

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

I've had a couple of those original switches apart, electrically speaking pretty poor design. Internally, pretty clear it was intended to be a two position switch only. A real center "off" position for map/dome lamp switches is very common for many other make vehicles over the years but don't believe it was intentional for this particular application. It's the heat and current draw of the incandescent bulb that causes the most issues with this map light assembly.

[rr6pak]

I like what you did to yours 72Roadrunnergtx/Doug!

[jsbrown]

Thanks folks! Sounds like we'll pursue the 2 position setup. I really appreciate the feedback on this!

As for plastic, its an ABS plastic. I'm not an expert by any means as to if there are different grades though.

Regarding the bulb heat, the bulb holder that's going into the new assemblies will support a bulb type that's available in an LED array. I need to try a few and see how some of them look when I get a lensed proto back.

Thanks again for the feedback!!
Jeff