Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
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- GTX (RS)
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Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
Hi,
I have finished the current workscope on my SSP for now and am planning the next stage. The restoration is a rolling one - drivetrain / undercarriage etc. has been overhauled / restored and the car could be driven from Maine to Baja if necessary. Problem now, of course, is that before the car could only be removed w/ a flatbed, so theft was not so much of an issue.
I know that if some lowlife is determined enough to swipe your car they will. However, there is no point making it easy for them to do so. Does anyone have any recommendations as to immobilizing systems / options for 70s Mopars? The car will be garaged (of course) but on the rare occasions it is out and about, what would be a good setup to discourage them from trying?
Thanks for any comments / recommendations you have.
BR
Ian B.
I have finished the current workscope on my SSP for now and am planning the next stage. The restoration is a rolling one - drivetrain / undercarriage etc. has been overhauled / restored and the car could be driven from Maine to Baja if necessary. Problem now, of course, is that before the car could only be removed w/ a flatbed, so theft was not so much of an issue.
I know that if some lowlife is determined enough to swipe your car they will. However, there is no point making it easy for them to do so. Does anyone have any recommendations as to immobilizing systems / options for 70s Mopars? The car will be garaged (of course) but on the rare occasions it is out and about, what would be a good setup to discourage them from trying?
Thanks for any comments / recommendations you have.
BR
Ian B.
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'72 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus 400-4BBL
- Smellslike1974
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
When my engine is back in i will be installing a kill switch in my car.It will be hidden underneath the dash.I once day dreamed and pictured someone trying to steal it as i got in it one day being out with it,before getting out (because they forcefully wanted me to do so),i flicked the kill switch leaving the car impossible to start.When the car jacker struggled to start the car i opened the door and beat them up.
Now that was a daydream,real life situations may be different,they could lock the door,try to rip out the wires and jump it,they could possibly find the switch or maybe you wont be at the car.At least all that would take time and that's time you have to act on whatever you want to do.Even though,unless your dealing with a very talented driver and he knows exactly what hes doing,finding the car would be fairly easy,unless where you live is filled with these cars.I only see a classic roaming around here like every two weeks.I figured instead of just doing nothing a cheap switch is very effective.Its where you go to,and where you park.
If I ever come across a thief that breaks a window on any classic car I will go ballistic!

Now that was a daydream,real life situations may be different,they could lock the door,try to rip out the wires and jump it,they could possibly find the switch or maybe you wont be at the car.At least all that would take time and that's time you have to act on whatever you want to do.Even though,unless your dealing with a very talented driver and he knows exactly what hes doing,finding the car would be fairly easy,unless where you live is filled with these cars.I only see a classic roaming around here like every two weeks.I figured instead of just doing nothing a cheap switch is very effective.Its where you go to,and where you park.

If I ever come across a thief that breaks a window on any classic car I will go ballistic!
"Sunny D"-1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring With Sundance Packaging
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
i used to just have a toggle switch controlling power to the coil plus a hidden start button in the console (it was flush mount and black, so unless you knew to look there, very hard to find. now i have car set-up more race like with my aluminum dash and i have toggles to control everything...main power to car, ignition, etc. you still need the key to unlock the column, but a screwdriver and hammer could fix that. i was considering a battery disconnect for my car also, but i have different battery terminals now with wingnuts that attach the cable lugs to the terminal connections (marine-type), so it's really easy to disconnect battery now (plus, no more messing up battery connections
). the problem i have is that with hood pins and exterior release, it's pretty easy to get under-hood - i think someone did in my parking lot once. if i ever get the urge, i'd like to get the locking hood "pins" that require keys, or could go the stock route and add an interior hood release.
the easiest ways would probably be to have an ignition kill switch hidden under the dash - my friend's camaro had one in the kick panel, so you just hit it with your foot. plus you could add a battery disconnect if you have a hood that can't be opened from outside. i think i'm okay set-up how i am now, as most people if they're going to steal a car are stupid and ignorant, knowing little about cars...and most stolen cars are newer ones, like the 'unstealable' escalades
. a real car guy probably wouldn't steal somebody's ride (at least around here...dunno about you folks out east or to the west)
SUMMARY, since i ramble - invest a few dollars in a toggle switch, some spare wire, maybe a battery disconnect and you'll probably be okay. most people just look at old cars, not steal them

the easiest ways would probably be to have an ignition kill switch hidden under the dash - my friend's camaro had one in the kick panel, so you just hit it with your foot. plus you could add a battery disconnect if you have a hood that can't be opened from outside. i think i'm okay set-up how i am now, as most people if they're going to steal a car are stupid and ignorant, knowing little about cars...and most stolen cars are newer ones, like the 'unstealable' escalades

SUMMARY, since i ramble - invest a few dollars in a toggle switch, some spare wire, maybe a battery disconnect and you'll probably be okay. most people just look at old cars, not steal them
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- GTX (RS)
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
keep the coil wire in your pocket?
sjd
sjd
1971 GTX, GY9 Tawny Gold.
- Smellslike1974
- GTX (RS)
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
yeah,but only thing is if you have a newer radio,every time the battery is disconnected youd have to reset the radio.Unless i just got a dumb one.landon1 wrote:
SUMMARY, since i ramble - invest a few dollars in a toggle switch, some spare wire, maybe a battery disconnect and you'll probably be okay. most people just look at old cars, not steal them

"Sunny D"-1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring With Sundance Packaging
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- GTX (RS)
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- My Cars: 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
there is a way to keep stereos getting constant memory...not a concern of mine, but i have seen something that would allow that, other than just running the memory wire direct to the batter, by-passing the disconnect...idr where i saw it...
what you talkin bout stereos for, all you need is headers and sweet exhaust
but, i think i'll probably be cutting a hole for one in my aluminum cluster at some point...looks almost too bare inside without one - i have a bright red fire extinguisher, though 
what you talkin bout stereos for, all you need is headers and sweet exhaust


- Smellslike1974
- GTX (RS)
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- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:12 am
- Location: south new jersey
Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
well even if its not on i need something covering the hidious radio hole someone hacked in my dash.
I was just saying.......
I was just saying.......

"Sunny D"-1974 Plymouth Satellite Sebring With Sundance Packaging
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- GTX (RS)
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Re: Protecting / Immobilizing Your 70s Mopar......
As far as protecting your car.
Disconnect the battery and taking the coil wire are good methods.
If someone really wants your car a rollback is all they need to haul your car away.
A HEAVY lock through the wheels can make it more difficult.
And locking lug nuts will slow them down.
I used a horse shoe shaped wheel lock on my motor cycle for years.
Still enough manpower can pick it up and put a motorcycle on a trailer.
LowJack or some other GPS tracking unit may help recover your car or what ever parts are left.
Disconnect the battery and taking the coil wire are good methods.
If someone really wants your car a rollback is all they need to haul your car away.
A HEAVY lock through the wheels can make it more difficult.
And locking lug nuts will slow them down.
I used a horse shoe shaped wheel lock on my motor cycle for years.
Still enough manpower can pick it up and put a motorcycle on a trailer.
LowJack or some other GPS tracking unit may help recover your car or what ever parts are left.
